rocce boudering 2

In Basilicata, bouldering started in 2003 thanks to the intuition and assiduous work of some Apulian climbers. In fact, thanks to the wandering and exploratory character of the climbers, one of the best bouldering sites in the world is located in the area between the towns of Accettura, Campomaggiore, Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa, almost all of which are part of the Gallipoli Cognato Park.

It is one of the best sites for not only the countless quantity of boulders present, but also above all for the quality of the rock, a well cemented sandstone that offers excellent adherence to the climbers' hands and a great variety of climbing passages.

A site with similar characteristics in Italy can be found only near Ascoli Piceno and precisely in the village of Meschia, because other sites in the Alps offer a less adhering granite-like rock.

Today the bouldering site of the Parco Gallipoli Cognato Piccole Dolomiti Lucane, visited all year round by dozens of climbers from all over Europe, including the world champion, is described on the ROCCIAERESINA website and on the climbing guide “Climbing in the South”, both of the professional climber Graziano Montel.

What is Bouldering?
rocce boulderig

Bouldering is the climbing activity on a rock that offers climbing walls. Since the '70s, the erratic boulders, transported downstream and disseminated since the last glaciation, have been a training ground for climbers and mountaineers. Their reduced height and the simplicity of the accesses have enabled many climbers to refine technique and strength in preparation for the large walls.

In recent years this form of climbing in "miniature", on stones of a few meters height, has assumed its own dimension and the success on short but intense passes has acquired an absolute value (of this specialty there are competitions both nationally and internationally ).

In addition to the competitive aspect, it is important to note that many climbers love the relaxed atmosphere and the party atmosphere created at the base of the boulders when climbing with friends. The climbers are now willing to travel a lot to deal with boulders of quality, perhaps present in large numbers on the same site.

In the surrounding area of the Park, there is a bouldering field, Pietra del Toro (www.pietradeltoro.it), where you can experience climbing in an uncontaminated and fascinating environment.

The limits of bouldering are mainly two:

  • The availability of rock blocks with a compact surface, from 2.5 to 15 m high, possibly located in an almost flat area;
  • A climate neither too cold nor hot.

Most of the important sites are located where well-cemented sandstones emerge.

When these rocks come to the surface, atmospheric agents tend to degrade them especially along the fractures, developing a labyrinth of furrows. The outcrop is thus transformed into an expanse of separate blocks, often of sufficient height for bouldering.

At the same time, a process of ion migration from the interior to the rock surface, and the formation of alveolar cavities and furrows at the points of greatest moisture stagnation, transform the appearance of the blocks. The surface becomes at the same time worked in an infinity of curious morphologies (excellent grips for climbing) and hardened to the point that small scales can easily support the weight of a man.

Similar processes make it interesting for climbing, if they remain exposed to atmospheric agents for a long time, even boulders fallen from mountain ranges and abandoned by some transport agent, such as glaciers (erratic boulders) or landslides.